Matt’s Birthday Colette Negroni #3

If you participated in #virtualfrocktails back on April 4th, you may have seen this Colette Patterns Negroni I made for this handsome fella. Matt and I posted a pic of ourselves and did a little IG live in our #quarantinelife attire. It made me realize I hadn’t blogged about either of our recent flannel makes.

This is the third Colette Negroni I have made Matt. You can see the other two versions here and here. Apparently, he gets one every 2-3 years. Seems fair to me! Anyway, I have made him both the short and long sleeve versions and he likes them both and wears them quite often. Since then, he has been asking me for more of them, but he had one request for his next one; he wanted me to replace the camp collar with a collar stand. I figured this would be another great opportunity to put to use what I had learned in Patternmaking at Camp Workroom Social last year, so I gladly accepted!

Details

Pattern

Colette Patterns Negroni

Fabric

I used a plaid flannel that I had purchased on a trip to Livingston, Montana to visit my sister last year. Again, I am terrible of keeping track of what the fabric is that I buy, but if I remember correctly, this is a Robert Kaufman flannel.

Size traced and sewn

Version 1
Size large

Alterations

  • Added collar stand using Grainline Studio Archer Button Up collar stand piece and lengthening it to fit
  • Redrafted collar pieces (redrafted curve where collar meets collar stand to remove excess fabric no longer needed around back of neckline)
  • Eliminated facings
  • Added 2″ from seam line on right front (since there would be no facings)
  • Subtracted 1.25″ from seam line on left front (to account for addition of button band)
  • Drafted button band for left front
Tag by Stitch Collective.

Construction Notes

I basically just used the Archer Button Up as a guide construction-wise since that pattern has a collar stand. All pattern pieces used were from the Negroni, except for the the collar stand which I took from the Archer Button Up and lengthened it to fit the neckline of the Negroni. I also drafted a button band and had to make some adjustments to the right and left front and collar to fit with the collar stand. Amazingly, I measured right and it worked out!

I figured this one called for snap buttons again.

Fit

Since this is a TNT pattern for me, the fit was consistent with the other two, but I felt like the sleeves of Matt’s first Negroni were too long, so I had him try it on again before I made this one. We did look at it and I don’t know if that shirt has shrunk a bit over the years or if Matt said the sleeve length was fine because he usually rolls his sleeves up or both, but for whatever reason we decided to leave the sleeve length as is. Looking at this photo, they still seem too long to me. I think I finally have Matt convinced that sleeve cuffs technically shouldn’t pool at the wrists like that, so I will be shortening them next time.

Final Thoughts

I like this fabric sewn up way more than I thought I would. The flannel has such a nice weight. It’s on the heavier side and Matt said he likes that because it’s almost like outerwear. This is another example of how much you can vary a pattern can by using different materials. I’m also very pleased that the collar stand hack was successful. I have another piece of beautiful Pendelton wool shirting that will be Matt’s next Negroni, so we are both even more excited about that make now!

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